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PEABODY'S MAYSLAKE ESTATE: THE REST OF THE STORY

5/2/2013

 
Would you believe F. S. Peabody lived in 15 different homes in the Chicago area during his lifetime? I didn't think so!  That means he moved approximately every four years.  OMG! Even with servants to handle the bulk of the packing and unpacking, it’s still a hassle just keeping  up with the mail and the newspapers.  Peabody is most associated with his Hinsdale home, the one he lived in just prior to his Mayslake residence.  
  
With curiosity my middle name and serendipity my game, I talked Jimmy into driving by Peabody’s more modest Hinsdale home which still looks much as it did almost a hundred years ago.  I can't vouch for the inside. If you knew anything about the wealthy Chicago suburb of Hinsdale, this fact would not appear bizarre whatsoever.  We’re talking old money.  Old money begets old homes and old mansions, family heirlooms passed down from one generation to the next; kind of like my family heirlooms.  
 
After my mother’s death, my three siblings and I divvied up the two dozen or so watercolors my mother had painted in her later years.   These were the most prized of her possessions.  No mansions or millions to speak of in my family; but enough about me.  
Picture
This Queen Anne is very charming, but it's too big for just Jimmy and me.
I’m here to finish what I started.  I owe you five more pictures of Peabody’s Mayslake. I exceeded my quota; it's one of the perks of my job/blog; I get to be the boss, make the decisions. It's quite fun!  There was just too much to see and tell when it came to the interior of Peabody's mansion to not renege on my promise.  I hope you'll forgive me.
1.  Fine Dining at Mayslake
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I like that their dining room isn't one of those that never gets used except for special occasions.
I rather like that Peabody’s Mayslake mansion is not a showcase for the lifestyles of the rich and famous.   Been there; done that (as in seen it, not lived it). With the exception of the living room (no pictures allowed there), the mansion is not filled with period pieces and personal effects that can’t be touched or photographed.    

Restoration efforts to address the architectural and structural damage (students from the Art Institute in Chicago learning restoration techniques come in periodically to volunteer their time and expertise)have been and will continue to be ongoing for years. And yet the focus from the folks at Mayslake, as per our delightful tour guide Linda, is “providing cultural and educational opportunities in a historic setting.”   I think Peabody would be very proud of his legacy at Mayslake. Weddings happen quite frequently in the Portiuncula Chapel built and dedicated to Peabody’s memory.  The wedding receptions are held in the first floor of Mayslake; the dining room, library and breakfast area lend themselves well to such extravagant affairs.

Peabody would have undoubtedly enjoyed the “Best of the Best” Art Exhibit on display in the dining room the  day Jimmy and I toured Mayslake given Peabody’s interest in photography.  The exhibits included photographs, paintings, and sculptures, many from members of the Oakbrook Art League.  Peabody was a rather renowned black and white photographer in his own right.

Peruse the Mayslake website for a full listing of the educational and cultural opportunities. I  mentioned the award-winning First Folio Theater productions yesterday, but there is so much more: classes devoted to acting, photography, writing and painting; musical performances covering the gamut from a cappella to jazz to symphony; workshops and professional retreats for encouraging team building and exploration of new and existing skills. A native plant sale is scheduled for this weekend.  Disclaimer:  I am in no way affiliated with Mayslake programs or with the DuPage Forest Preserve District.  I just like what they've done with the place.  I really liked what Ann Grill's Watercolor class (offer through Mayslake and the DuPage Forest Preserve District) did via this mosaic rendition of the cross atop Mayslake's Portiuncula Chapel.
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I'm going to try this someday with my own subject.
2.  Mayslake’s Grand Staircase
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Okay, so it's not in move-in condition.
The paint and plaster peeling on the walls and ceiling of the sunny,  two-story foyer were a  blatant reminder of just how much work still has to be done to restore Mayslake to the mansion Peabody moved into in 1921.   The hand-carved staircase made of imported walnut was truly a work of art.  The original fixtures seemed small by today’s standards but certainly added to the authenticity of the nearly one-hundred-year-old, castle-like structure. I’ve always admired alcove-like landings that say welcome, sit and stay for a while, but wonder if I’d ever really tarry to enjoy the spot with so many other nooks and crannies in a house of such grandeur. 
Picture
Mayslake would have been a great house for hide and seek.
3.  Mayslake Library
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During those chilly winters I'd probably opt for sitting by the large stone fireplace opposite the windows.
In that same vein, I’d probably be more inclined to slip into the library to catch up on my reading. My thoughts: so many books; so little time!

Peabody was also a connoisseur of books. In the day, his extensive library included a private collection of over 200 books, manuscripts, letters and unpublished poems from Robert Louis  Stevenson.  That collection is now part of Peabody’s alma mater, Yale University.  
 
Of all the rooms in this empty mansion, the library, with its rich English Oak bookshelves and beautiful stucco-duro ceilings evoked the greatest sense of loss for me; a room without books is like a body without a soul.  Thanks for that insight, Cicero. 

4.  The Secret Staircase
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This is enough to make me dizzy. Did it help Peabody fall head over heels in love?
Being a man of considerable means comes with its perks; and problems.   In Peabody’s day, living out in the woods removed from civilization could leave one vulnerable.   During the course of building his Peabody Coal Company the coal miners working to extract the black gold Peabody needed to stay in business unionized.  Fighting for safer working conditions, better pay, and pensions resulted in labor strikes, and sometimes resulted in deaths.     

On April 1, 1922, just months before Peabody’s death in August, Herrin, Illinois was the scene of one of the bloodiest riots (called the Herrin Massacre) involving striking coal miners.   Twenty people died in that riot.  That riot in Peabody’s back yard (well, actually Peabody’s 848 acres didn’t quite extend to the southern tip of Illinois where Herrin is located) was part of a nationwide strike by the United Mine Workers.  
 
The times were a changing. Safety was undoubtedly on Peabody’s mind when he had Mayslake built to include a secret staircase (Peabody could access the staircase through a hidden panel in the wall of his upstairs library adjacent to his bedroom, or from a similar hidden panel in his private office adjacent to the foyer on the first floor directly below) for quick getaways.  
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Don't be getting any ideas, Jimmy!
Some say (here’s where fact and fiction battle it out) Peabody’s secret staircase also gave him ready access to the servants’ quarters, as well as the speakeasy in the bombproof basement (prohibition simply kept those imbibing at home).   
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Tryst headquarters?
Some also like to speculate that Peabody married in haste after the tragic death of his first wife, Mae, particularly given he named Mayslake after his first wife (his daughter was also named Mae) while he and his second wife went about planning for their retirement home.   Personally, it’s not my idea of wedded bliss, especially ten years into the marriage.  
 

Jimmy and I did get to see their separate bedrooms during our tour of Mayslake.  

HIS
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Remember, no furnishings. Nice sunny window seat though.
HERS
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Windows lined three of the four walls of Mary's room; they infused the room with light!
Maybe separate bedrooms is the way of the wealthy.  Fortunately Jimmy and I don’t qualify.  Besides, the couch works well when one of us snores too loudly.  Jimmy says I snore but I have no idea what he's talking about. 

5.  The History and the Mystery
Picture
Kind of looked like my house when Jimmy and I moved in.
If these walls could talk, would they really tell all?  Would we want to know all?   I don't. Personally, I like my history with a little mystery.  It keeps me coming back for more.  I certainly could have used a few more field trips like this one in lieu of another chapter in the history book for homework.  

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The Bottom Line on Mayslake Peabody Estate  

Verdict:  A resounding Yes!  This estate is so much more than an aging albatross reminiscent of America’s Gilded Age. The DuPage County Forest Preserve District is my new hero. There is so much to see, to do, and to enjoy year round at this National Historic Landmark.   The fact you get a little bit of the Peabody legend while you’re there just adds some panache to the package.  Tweens might not be as keen about the mansion, but if you spice it up the history with a bit of the mystery, I bet they’d make it through the one-hour tour.  Toddlers and probably teens; not a good idea. 

How to Get There:  It’s a 20 minute commute from the city of Chicago via the Congress  Parkway and I-88. Exit I-88 on Route 83 heading south. Take the Oakbrook Road/31st Street exit and turn right heading west on 31st Street.  The entrance to Mayslake will be on the left less than half a mile down 31st Street.  The docent guided “Restoration in Progress Tours” are only available on Wednesdays (11 am and 12:30 pm) and Saturdays (9:30 am/10 am/11 am/11:30 am). There are no tours during the months of January and February. 
 
Insider Information:  This may seem silly, but I don’t want you to look silly (like Jimmy and I did) when you arrive for your guided tour and try to enter through the front door of Mayslake.  That would be a no-go (maybe restoration efforts would be compromised).  The brick-paved sidewalk at the front of mansion leads to two different doors.  Don’t follow the sidewalk to the grand front door of Mayslake.  Follow the sidewalk along the two-story retreat wing to a rather non-descript door to enter the premises, then take a left down the hall to make your way into Mayslake Hall proper where you can sign up for your tour.  Tours are a very reasonable $5 per person.     

Nearby Food:  Nothing available on the estate grounds, but historic downtown Hinsdale offers everything from fast food to fine dining with a short 10-minute drive via Route 83 and Ogden Avenue.  Jimmy and I had lunch at Cosi, a gourmet coffee bar sans sophisticated, eclectic café housed inside the original Burlington Train Station.   More to come on Cosi in the next few days.


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