I seem to have a thing for old towns.
Several months ago there was South Park, Colorado’s 150-year-old ghost of a town. Several weeks ago there was Cesky Krumlov, the 700-year-old Bohemian medieval city.
What can I say? Cesky Krumlov (CK) and I are living proof that things just get better with age although 700 years has one too many zeroes for my own aspirations.
Several months ago there was South Park, Colorado’s 150-year-old ghost of a town. Several weeks ago there was Cesky Krumlov, the 700-year-old Bohemian medieval city.
What can I say? Cesky Krumlov (CK) and I are living proof that things just get better with age although 700 years has one too many zeroes for my own aspirations.
I give CK credit for weathering the wretched march of time with distinction and pride. She’s a special lady after all these years; maybe its high cheek bones or good posture; perhaps her royal connection. Whatever the events leading to her present day charm, it’s obvious she’s had lots of TLC. The Czech’s are known for their appreciation of their history and heritage.
I was like a pilgrim on a crusade the day my 60-mile journey from Linz, Austria via a bus brought Jim and me and a few new friends to CK. CK didn’t seem to mind the throngs of people. I did, but what’s a crusader to do. I prayed for enlightenment. The town of CK delivered.
I was like a pilgrim on a crusade the day my 60-mile journey from Linz, Austria via a bus brought Jim and me and a few new friends to CK. CK didn’t seem to mind the throngs of people. I did, but what’s a crusader to do. I prayed for enlightenment. The town of CK delivered.
Yeah, this picture should look familiar if you saw yesterday's blog. Can't improve perfection.
It was a beautiful day, a fitting day for stepping into the distant past via Cesky Krumlov. No dark and dreary weather for this classy medieval town.
The name Krumlov derives from the German “Krumme Aue”, which translates as “crooked meadow”. The word “Cesky” simply means Czech or Bohemian as opposed to Moravian or Silesian. Given the topography of the region, even in the dark ages one could see the connection between the tightly crooked meander of the Vltava River and the town that nestled in that crook. According to records, CK debuted in 1253 although she went by the name of
Chrumbonowe then.
The name Krumlov derives from the German “Krumme Aue”, which translates as “crooked meadow”. The word “Cesky” simply means Czech or Bohemian as opposed to Moravian or Silesian. Given the topography of the region, even in the dark ages one could see the connection between the tightly crooked meander of the Vltava River and the town that nestled in that crook. According to records, CK debuted in 1253 although she went by the name of
Chrumbonowe then.
No, that's not the Blue Danube. It's the Vltava River meandering through the town of Cesky Krumlov.
It was during the rule of the Rosenberg family (yesterday it was Rozmberk, the Czech version; today it’s the translated Rosenberg) that the town of CK grew and prospered. I was too mesmerized by the colorful facades
Let's see, by my count, I see maybe 6 houses (full and partial) so far.
and the narrow, cobblestone streets to verify the 96 houses the town boasted in 1376.
Doesn't get much earthier than this brown facade. It never shows dirt!
Under Peter I von Rosenberg’s rule during the 14th century, he endowed his subjects the right to mill, brew beer, hold markets and sell goods. It was evident the day Jim and I arrived 700 years later that it was business as usual.
There were restaurants;
There were restaurants;
I'll tell you all about lunch here tomorrow.
art galleries;
The door alone says classy! Can only imagine the masterpieces inside.
quaint shops;
This place just oozed charm.
book stores;
Shakespeare had it so right. "What is past is prologue."
museums;
I'm not lying! I think Pinocchio might have spent some time here.
several long-standing churches;
The Marionette Museum is now housed in what was once St. Jost Church.
Services are still held today in the 700 year old Church of St. Vitus.
darling residences;
You'd have to pay good money today to achieve this fresco look.
and even a hostel among the classy hotels.
You get the 7th night free and you're only a block away from the town square.
And of course no medieval town, past or present, would be complete without a town square
The Marion Plague Column was erected in 1716 to help ward off future outbreaks.
and a good coffee house.
Eat your heart out Starbucks! This one got the coveted corner spot.
And of course I'd be remiss if I didn't mention the Krumlov Castle and the Rosenberg dynasty, the original benefactor of all this glorious commercial, architectural and cultural good fortune.
Krumlov Castle, a.k.a. Bank of Cesky Krumlov.
Of course, with 700 years separating Peter I von Rosenberg and present day, I did skip a bit of history in lieu of pictures. Those pictures certainly capture the essence of that history. But as I wandered the streets of this medieval town that is proudly marching into in the 21st century, I couldn’t help but wonder how CK managed to escape the steady march of progress. Who or what circumstances led to this beautiful gift to mankind?
Seven hundred years of nobility (the Rosenbergs, the Luxemburgs, the Habsburgs, the Eggenbergs and the Schwarzenbergs) speaks to who was behind today’s Cesky Krumlov medieval relic. Money always talks!
Circumstances, like dominoes standing neatly upright, provided the rest of the pieces of CK’s salvation as history fell into place.
The abolition of aristocratic privilege and World War II brought cataclysmic change to Europe. Shortly after Adolph zu Schwarzenberg went into exile, the Gestapo took possession of the Schwarzenberg family property, Krumlov Castle. The year was 1939. The German occupation
obviously helped spare CK the bombings that decimated so many other historic European cities during World War II.
When the dust settled, Krumlov Castle had been returned to its rightful owner, the Czechoslovak State. The rest is history, as they say, an astonishing piece of history proudly preserved for all of humanity with its designation as a World Heritage and Cultural Site in 1992. Kudos to the Czechs and the town of Cesky Krumlov!!!
At the end of the day, I didn’t want to leave this cultural and architectural gem. To walk these cobblestone streets in a town bustling with life from both the past and the present I could hear the hum of humanity as clearly as I could see the history come alive.
It was all truly a thing of beauty!
Seven hundred years of nobility (the Rosenbergs, the Luxemburgs, the Habsburgs, the Eggenbergs and the Schwarzenbergs) speaks to who was behind today’s Cesky Krumlov medieval relic. Money always talks!
Circumstances, like dominoes standing neatly upright, provided the rest of the pieces of CK’s salvation as history fell into place.
The abolition of aristocratic privilege and World War II brought cataclysmic change to Europe. Shortly after Adolph zu Schwarzenberg went into exile, the Gestapo took possession of the Schwarzenberg family property, Krumlov Castle. The year was 1939. The German occupation
obviously helped spare CK the bombings that decimated so many other historic European cities during World War II.
When the dust settled, Krumlov Castle had been returned to its rightful owner, the Czechoslovak State. The rest is history, as they say, an astonishing piece of history proudly preserved for all of humanity with its designation as a World Heritage and Cultural Site in 1992. Kudos to the Czechs and the town of Cesky Krumlov!!!
At the end of the day, I didn’t want to leave this cultural and architectural gem. To walk these cobblestone streets in a town bustling with life from both the past and the present I could hear the hum of humanity as clearly as I could see the history come alive.
It was all truly a thing of beauty!
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