HIKING THE STUNNING KASHA-KATUWE TENT ROCKS NATIONAL MONUMENT

Who says it’s lonely at the top? 

Given my recent hiking experience I’d have to say the solitude at the top of New Mexico’s “white cliffs” was a breath of fresh air (literally).  And while our destination offered a stunning view of the geological mysteries of the last six million years undulating across the plains as far as the eye could see, it should come as no surprise that the real story was in the journey rather than the destination.

Our journey began in Santa Fe with a 45-minute drive southwest to New Mexico’s Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument on the Pajarito Plateau.  Our goal was to get in and out before the crowds and the midday sun made our Sunday hike unbearable.

As fate would have it I could count on one hand the number of people we encountered on our way up the mountain.  We chose the tougher of the two trails, the Canyon Trail, given the proliferation of distinctive tent-rock (hoodoo) formations along the trail and the promise of that spectacular view at the top.  We commenced our journey midmorning with a chill in the air and a bounce in our step.  Oh, yeah! We were carrying several liters of water, too.  See ill-fated Death Valley hike.  

We’d learned, courtesy of the park brochure, that the area owes its remarkable geology to layers of volcanic rock and ash deposited by pyroclastic flow 6 to 7 million years ago from a volcanic explosion within the Jemex Volcanic Field; and to the gentle hand of time as wind and water smoothed the pumice, ash and tuff deposits.  Time hasn’t been as gentle on my own tough deposits.   

Walking the narrow canyon walls also carved from the wind and water brought back memories of our hike to the elegant rose-red city of Petra, Jordan, and to the magnificent Treasury.  No Treasury on the 6.4 square miles of this particular national monument, although the area is sacred to the Pueblo de Cochiti Indians that still inhabit the nearby ancestral land.  Kasha-Katuwe means “white cliffs” in the traditional Keresan language of the pueblo.    

Whatever the language, words don’t do justice when it comes to describing our time spent exploring this magnificent monument.   Pictures help, but still fall short in capturing the beauty of the perfect day we were given, the majesty of this unique natural wonder, and the reverence we felt for this wonderful planet Earth.    

It took us two hours to hike the 1.5 miles to the top.  We’re not as young as we used to be.  Definitely as stubborn as ever!  Once we exited the slot canyon, 

the last leg of our journey meant a rocky ascended of 630 feet, to an altitude approaching 7,000 feet above sea level.  Did I mention Chicago is about 580 feet above sea level?  We were feeling the altitude, as in one moment giddy and tired,    

the next moment parched and prickly.  

And then blessedly, the ascent gave way to the summit,    

and the planet whispered, “Welcome home.”   

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The Bottom Line on New Mexico’s Kashe-Katuwe Tent Rocks Monument

Verdict:  And all this time I thought Santa Fe was breathtaking!  Even if you’re not up for rigorous hiking, there’s always the easier Cave Trail minus, of course, the spectacular ‘welcome home.’  

This way to the Cave Trail. We'd hoped to hike both trails, but our knees vetoed the idea.

Never have I witnessed such amazing rock formations!  Well, Iceland was pretty spectacular, but in her own unique way. 

How to Get There:  The national monument is somewhat isolated but well signposted, starting from exits 259 (NM 22) or 264 (NM 16) of interstate 25 between Albuquerque and Santa Fe. Both roads are relatively busy, and converge at Pena Blanca after which NM 22 narrows, passing through several sleepy settlements. 

The highway turns north in front of the 4.5 mile wide, 250 feet high Cochiti Dam across the Rio Grande - a rather incongruous sight in the otherwise natural, unspoiled valley that is home to the Pueblo de Cochiti, the main village in the 53,779 acre Cochiti Indian Reservation.

Insider Information:  No dogs are allowed, except identifiable service animals, and there is no camping in the area.  Winter (November 1 to March 10) hours are 8 am to 5 pm; gates close to arriving visitors at 4 pm.  The remainder of the year the park is open from 7 am to 7 pm, with gates closing for arriving visitors at 6 pm. The $5 fee per vehicle is returned to the park for monitoring, maintenance, and improvements.  Fees for group sizes numbering up to 25 is $25.  Groups numbering between 25 to 100 will be charged a fee of $100.  A small number of picnic tables, some shaded, were available adjacent to the park lot. Basic facilities were also provided.     

We went the extra mile (actually we drove 3.5 miles on a rather rocky gravel road offering more spectacular views of the tent-rocks) and visited the nearby Veterans’ Memorial Scenic Overlook dedicated in 2004.  Our thanks to all the veterans! The scenic overlook offered yet more spectacular vistas of Camada and Peralta canyons, the Dome Wilderness and Jemez mountains.  It was a day for spectacular panoramic views!

Nearby Food:  Nothing available at the monument site.  Snacks, soda, and water can be purchased at the convenience store located in the nearby town of Cochiti Lake.


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